🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.